How to Deal with Acne Scars — Topicals vs Procedures
Most 'acne scars' are post-inflammatory pigmentation, not true scars. The two require different treatment.
If you only read one paragraph.
Pigmented marks fade with daily SPF, vitamin C, and niacinamide over 12-16 weeks. True ice-pick or rolling scars need in-clinic procedures (microneedling, fractional laser, subcision). Topicals don't fix true scars.
The full method.
- Diagnose: pigmentation or scar?. Pigmentation = flat, brown/red, fades over time. Scar = textured (pitted or raised), permanent without procedures.
- For pigmentation: daily SPF + vitamin C + niacinamide. 16-week protocol. Most marks fade 80%.
- Add tretinoin or retinol. Speeds up cell turnover, helps both pigmentation and scarring.
- For atrophic scars: microneedling 4-6 sessions. $300-600 per session. 4-6 sessions, 4-6 weeks apart. 30-50% improvement in scar depth.
- For rolling scars: subcision in-clinic. Specialist procedure that releases scar adhesions. $400-800 per session.
- For ice-pick scars: TCA cross or punch excision. Specialist treatments by a dermatologist. Severe scars only.
- Don't pick or scrub. Both worsen pigmentation. Aggressive scrubbing creates new scarring.
What to avoid.
- Treating textured scars with topicals (no topical fixes texture).
- Picking active acne (creates more scarring than the original lesion).
- Using harsh scrubs on red marks (worsens pigmentation).
- Stopping treatment at week 4 (most pigmentation needs 12-16 weeks).
- DIY peeling at home for scars (causes burns and worse scarring).
Common questions.
Will retinoid alone fix my scars?
It will fade pigmentation and slightly improve mild atrophic scarring over 6+ months. For deep ice-pick or rolling scars, you need in-clinic procedures.
How much does microneedling cost in Australia?
$300-600 per session at a reputable clinic. Course of 4-6 sessions = $1,500-3,000. Worth it for moderate-to-severe scarring.
Can I do microneedling at home?
Only at 0.25mm depth — for skincare absorption, not scarring. Home rollers can't reach the dermis depth needed for collagen induction.
Will my scars ever fully disappear?
Pigmentation: usually yes with consistent treatment. Atrophic scars: 50-80% improvement is realistic, complete disappearance is rare.
Related from Glow.
Best skincare for acne · How to fade pigmentation · How to use retinol