Anti-ageing. The multi-year program.
Skin ageing compounds. So does treatment. The Glow's editors don't believe in miracle products. We do believe in a small set of evidence-backed actives, layered correctly, supported by in-clinic device work where appropriate. Here is the program.
What it is.
Photoageing is the visible consequence of cumulative UV exposure plus intrinsic chronological ageing. It expresses as collagen degradation (fine lines, laxity), elastin disorganisation (mottled texture), pigmentation (sun spots, melasma) and vascular changes (telangiectasias, diffuse redness). The most-studied interventions are daily SPF, topical retinoids, and consistent multi-year skincare. The most-studied in-clinic technologies are fractional laser, BBL/IPL, microneedling with PRP, and red-light LED. Single sessions do little. Multi-year programs compound.
What works.
The evidence-backed topical pathway, ranked from foundational to advanced. Every product link goes to the full Glow review or category ranking.
Tretinoin 0.025-0.1%, PM
Prescription retinoid, the most-studied topical for photoageing. Improves fine lines, pigmentation, texture and pore size over 6-12 months. Start low, go slow.
Retinal 0.05-0.1%, PM (OTC alternative)
Stronger than retinol but tolerable, retinaldehyde converts to retinoic acid in a single step. Medik8 Crystal Retinal 6 is a strong starting point.
Daily SPF50+ broad-spectrum
Non-negotiable. UV is the dominant ageing input.
Vitamin C serum, AM
L-ascorbic acid 10-20%. Photo-protective, supports retinoid outcomes.
Peptide serum, AM/PM
Matrixyl, copper peptides, GHK-Cu. Evidence is modest but accumulating. Useful as a low-risk additive layer.
Ceramide moisturiser, PM
CeraVe Moisturizing Cream or Avene Trixera. Restores barrier compromised by retinoid use.
What doesn't.
Glow's banned list
- Most 'anti-ageing' serums under AU$30 without retinoid or vitamin C as the lead active. The carrier is doing more than the actives.
- Collagen drinks without consistent topical/in-clinic support. Modest skin benefit at best, mostly water and flavouring.
- Stem cell creams. Topical stem cells from plants do not become human stem cells. Marketing claim, not biology.
- Single in-clinic sessions without a multi-year plan. Fractional laser, BBL, microneedling all need program structure to compound.
- DIY microneedling at home with dermarollers over 0.5mm. Infection and scar risk outweigh benefit. Clinic-grade only.
When to see a clinic.
Anti-ageing programs benefit from in-clinic support around age 35-45. Three pathways: Fraxel (fractional laser resurfacing for texture, pigmentation, pore size, fine lines) is the most-studied in-clinic anti-ageing modality. Available at Flawless Rejuvenation. Forever Young BBL (quarterly maintenance BBL) has Stanford-published data on gene-expression reversion toward younger pattern. Skinologie runs the Sciton platform. CoolPeel CO₂ (shorter-downtime fractional CO₂) is the texture-and-tone all-rounder. Clinica Lase in Carlton runs it. Cosmetic injectables (anti-wrinkle, fillers) have a place in the program; Flawless Rejuvenation and Dr Tass both run doctor-led programs.
Questions, answered.
What age should I start retinol?
Mid-twenties is the typical entry point for over-the-counter retinol. Tretinoin (prescription) is appropriate from late-twenties onward under medical supervision. There is no upper age limit; retinoids remain useful into the seventies.
How long until I see results from retinoid?
Skin smoothness improves within 4-8 weeks. Fine line and pigmentation improvement is visible at 12-26 weeks. Maximum benefit accrues over 12+ months of consistent use. Stopping reverses gains.
Is LED light therapy worth the money?
Clinic-grade LED panels and at-home masks like the Omnilux Contour Face (9.4/10 on the Glow database, AU$595) have credible evidence for collagen support and inflammation reduction. The cheaper Amazon LED masks do not. Specifically: red light at 633nm and near-infrared at 830nm are the studied wavelengths.
Should I get fillers or focus on skin?
Skin first, always. Fillers are best used to support specific volume loss; they do not improve skin quality, tone or texture. A multi-year skincare and energy-device program is the foundation.
How important is sleep and stress for skin ageing?
Highly important. Chronic sleep deprivation and cortisol elevation degrade collagen and accelerate visible ageing more than most topical interventions can compensate for.
Related hubs.
All skin concerns · All Glow rankings · Glow Recommended clinics · The Glow Standard, v4.2